Owen Putnam State Forest 50 Mile Trail Ultra Marathon
November 4, 2000

Buck Hales

 

I tested my limbs for the first time when Karen and I went on a vigorous walk with the dogs one week after the race.  While my legs generally responded to the signals from my brain, it was apparent that my toes had indeed suffered an insult.  I suppose, if losing a few more toenails was the only price I paid for the 50 miler, then I got off pretty easy.  When I was back in the room after the race the parts of my body that were talking to me were my ribs and ankles.  I must've kicked my left ankle with my right foot a dozen times.  Those Gel Nandi trail shoes have flanged outsoles, like blades. But my ribs? The muscles between each and every rib ached and stung, especially when I laughed or flapped my arms.  I made a concerted effort to do neither, not hard, considering we'd run from first light that morning until it was pitch dark again. What amazed us both was how well we actually felt after our 11 hour and five minute jaunt.  Never having run 50 miles before we didn't really know what to expect, so Saint Stephen and I brought enough provisions and gear along for ten people.  Fortune smiled on us and the weather was perfect-- sunny, dry and cool from 35 to 50 degrees and back down into the 40’s, as we were finishing.  We couldn't have asked for a better day to run our first 50 mile trail ultra marathon. 

 

Steve and I drove to Spencer, Indiana and checked into the Patriot Inn.  Though it was only 4:30, it was starting to get dark, but we wanted to find the start of the race before morning.  So we headed up Indiana 46 to the access road for Owen Putnam State Forest.  Five miles up the road we found the turn off for Horse Campground and drove deep into the woods. There was no evidence of a race being run there the next day, but there were people camping there with their horses.  By 5:45 PM, it was completely dark as we drove back to Spencer. Owen Putnam State Forest comprises dozens of large parcels of land in adjacent Owen and Putnam counties interspersed between private properties.  Most folks along the road to the camp ground lived in trailer homes.  We saw one guy with a trailer, a nice barn and corral with a couple of horses, pulling up to the gate in his new Mercedes Benz.  Indiana is an interesting place.  Back at the Patriot Inn, the “expo” was in full swing. We ran into Wild Bill Hallihan in the lobby. We'd met Bill at the Milwaukee marathon a month earlier when this spry 70 year old was celebrating the running of his 100th marathon.  He was here to run the 50 miler-- no not his 101st marathon-- his 102nd, he'd run Chicago two weeks earlier.  The expo consisted of two card tables, a twelve pack of Busch beer, and the race director handing out numbers and T-shirts.  We sipped the ice-cold Busch beer and checked in.  Jeff Tincher the RD told us about the course and showed us the roster. He said awards were given as people finished, that there would be no awards ceremony, but they were having pizza at the community center after the race.  There were 25 people registered for the 50 miler, 9 were in my age group and 5 in Steve’s, and there were about 30 people signed up for the 50 K, and about 15 for the fun run-- the “fun run” was ONLY 15 miles.  Norm told us that the course was either up or down and that we had to ford several creeks, but it was dry--so dry there was nothing to hold the leaves down.  Steve and didn't have a clue as to what he meant-- yet. 

 

We arrived at Horse Campground just after 6 AM and it was still as dark as night.  We parked amongst the horse people and ignited the Coleman lantern.  We packed our double water bottle packs and arranged our armory of running stuff.  We knew we’d be back to the car 3 more times, which gave us a lot of flexibility. The first loop was 5 miles followed by three 15-mile loops.  We decided to run without our belts for the first loop, then belt up for the long ones.  The race was scheduled to start at 7:10 so it was just light enough to see.  With out fanfare the race started and we proceeded at a leisurely pace for 1.5 miles on a county road to the power line cut where the trail started.  The trail was ankle deep in grass and the path traversed a series of switchbacks to the top of “Hale Hill”. There was "butt slide" to get down the other side.  Soon we were back on the county road. We ran along with Bill and watched the field of runners fan out in front of us.  He told us about how running had saved his life-- he sobered up in 1985 and had run over 100 marathons.  He said running was a much better habit than drinking, and not drinking was like getting another paycheck each week.  Listening to Bill made that first little 5-mile loop go by quickly. Our split for the first loop was 55:20.

 

We got back to the car and prepared for the first 15-mile loop. We knew there was going to be an aid station every 4 miles, so we decided to go with our single bottle carriers to save weight. By the time we'd used the outhouse, and loaded up our belts, 7 minutes had elapsed for our first transition. We followed the arrows 100 yards down the road onto the trail into the woods.  In a few minutes we found ourselves alone, running in ankle deep leaf mulch, unable to see the ground, but able to follow the trail.  It took a lot of concentration to avoid the roots and rocks under the leaves, and as we ran along, picking up our feet, we created a cloud of leaf dust.  The trail was immediately narrow, hilly, and serpentine as it wound its way generally down towards the first creek we traversed.  It was narrow enough to jump and if you stepped carefully, you could avoid sticking your shoes into the deep mud.  Steve and I ran alone finding our way on the trail, and just when we thought we were lost, we'd come upon a sign pointing us in the right direction. We were told by OPSF veterans, the best strategy was to walk the hills and enjoy the scenery, and run when we could.  I felt great and energetic, but restrained myself.  When we climbed the steep early hills, not quite steep enough to use all fours, but close-- I used the giant ape swing gait to propel myself up the slopes.  By bending deep in the knees, leaning slightly forward and swinging my arms back and forth, I crested the hills with ease.  Steve adopted a linear arm swing and took short even steps up the hills.  The first aide station at mile 4 was a card table with several plastic jugs of water and big jars of cookies and pretzels.  I grabbed a hand full of pretzels and cookies and munched them down as we crossed the gravel road and continued on our way.  We immediately crossed the second creek, and then headed up a long gradual climb into a pine forest.  The path was clear of leaves and we could run with ease being able to see where we were stepping.  We ran up the easy hills, crossed a wide-open meadow, and then followed the trail back into woods.  The first stretch of trail was an out of use road with large gravel covered with leaves.  It was tough not to stumble on the rocks and ruts that crisscrossed the road and we were happy when the trail took a right fork and headed up into the trees.  After cresting a hill, the path plunged to the low point on the course, and we crossed the creek one more time.  Then the long ascent to the highest point in the race began.  I commented to Steve that this was one "big ass hill" and from that moment on, we began to refer to this stretch of the course as Big Ass Hill.  The trail climbed over several hundred feet in about 1/2 mile, winding along a ridge to the top of the hill.  We saw a sign proclaiming "one mile to the outback".  We continued along the narrow winding path, going up and down a series of short hills, before we came to the next sign advertising the "outback" with a drawing of an alligator.  After a very treacherous quarter mile, we came to the third sign proclaiming-- "don't despair, you're almost there, Outback in 1/4 mile".  We pressed on until the trail emerged from forest into the power line cut. 

 

We came upon a festive scene.  A white canopy tent, about four or five guys and a dog greeted us.  They offered to fill our water bottles and while we caught our breath, we checked out the spread.  They had aspirin, and ibuprofen, Gatorade and water, cookies, pretzels, medical supplies, Succeed caps, bananas and words of encouragement.  We chatted with the kind volunteers and mentioned that this was our first 50 miler.  One commented that we had definitely picked a “real hard one” for our first. They wanted to know why we picked this one and I explained that we had to run a 50 miler during Steve’s 50th year and his birthday was next week. They wanted to know how we got ready.  We mentioned that this was our fifth marathon or longer event of the year and we’d been working our way up to this.  After lingering for 4 or 5 minutes the other runner at the outback, Don took off with us.  Don Clark is a very seasoned ultra runner, with more than 100 ultras under his belt, including Western States and Leadville.  He was taking a slow but determined approach, and we soon ran by him.  We were feeling good about this time, the course was tough but doable and we were right on pace for breaking 10 hours.  Then we got to the first of the two killer hills.  We crossed the stream and began the ascent.  The trail was so steep I had to push my legs with my hands help get up the grade.  Soon Steve was 20 yards ahead of me as I labored up the hill.  It rose sharply for a good quarter mile before it became more gradual.  I was struggling and a bit impatient with our pace, and as I pushed going down the other side I almost ran into Steve who was gingerly picking his was down the equally steep descent.  The 15-mile loop is a long out and back with a three-mile loop at the far end.  When we connected with the first part of the loop, again it was at near the top of Big Ass Hill, which we ran down this time-- and then up the other side.  This second big hill on the second half of the loop was even steeper than the one we'd just come over.  Once again, Steve motored on up pulling 30 yards ahead while I hefted my mass up the trail.  Finally, we were back to the leaf covered big gravel root strewn road, then the pine path.  We decided that the hardest part of the course was now behind us we settled into to two miles of easy running.  By this time, I'd drained my gel flask and had taken two more gels.  My water bottle was empty by the time we got back to the first aid station so I was glad to be able to fill it.  The first section of the course was back up the deep leaf mulch trail, which now seemed much steeper and longer than it had coming out.  We made it in from our first loop at 3:55, covering the 15 miles in less than 3 hours. 

 

By now it was midday and had warmed considerably. I changed from a long sleeve poly pro shirt to my Virtual Buck singlet and ditched my gloves.  With a fresh headband, a restocked belt and a balance bar in my stomach, we were back on the trail. We got a bit distracted talking to the guy at the campground who was riding his mule.  He likely weighed over 300 pounds, had thinning Beach Boys hairdo and a missing front tooth.  He was mighty friendly and told us all about his mules. This time our transition took nearly 10 minutes.   I lead for the first part of the second loop and began to press the pace.

 

It was hot, and I kicked my left ankle with my right shoe repeatedly—each time sending a jolt of pain up my leg.  We ran comfortably (despite the intermittent self ankle abuse) and when we got to the stretch of trail that ran through the pine forest, I began to have a Daniel Day-Lewis fantasy just like the opening scene in Last of the Mohicans when they ran wildly through the forest chasing the deer.  We ran up the easy hills and kept pressing.   Big Ass Hill seemed even bigger this time up. For this loop, I didn’t have the gel flask with me--too hard to reload. So I consumed several gels and was feeling pretty good all the way to the outback.   We passed many 50 K runners who were on their way back in for their final loop.  Soon we were lapped by the lead runner in the 50-mile race, and while we were standing at the outback, the race’s youngest runner, a 22 year old from Bloomington ran up to the station, in hot pursuit of the leader.  He was shirtless, and his legs were bleeding from several fresh scratches. Steve asked if he'd fallen-- three times he replied.  He never stood still, just jogged nervously in place while Norm filled his water bottle- and he was off.  We lingered at the outback for five or six minutes while I ate some of the warm noodle soup Norm had cooking on his camp stove.  It was warm and rich and salty-- yummy.  While we stood there, Don came up again and we all took off together.

 

Then it happened. About 6 hours into the race, at about 33 or 34 miles we really began to struggle. My fingers swelled up to the size of hot dogs and I felt this intense hunger overcome me.  I craved a Boca burger.  As we worked our way up the first, then the second huge hill it was all I could do to keep going.  Knowing I had to do this ONE, more time was so awful.  Steve motored on head, and was now 30 or 40 yards ahead of me.  Don was nowhere to be seen.  I finally caught Steve on the descent down Big Ass Hill and we whined and moaned to each other agreeing that this was “really a bitch”.  I tried to pump my arms going up and pick up my knees going down to increase my heart action and help with the swelling, but it took too much extra effort.  I kept kicking my left ankle with my right shoe and was sure I had a beat it to a blood stump but couldn't see any blood through my black socks. Each time I kicked myself I felt a huge jolt of searing pain and I cursed myself for being so clumsy.  I searched my belt and came up with two more energy gels.  I didn’t have anymore of the delicious Carb Boom gels, but the Chocolate Outrage Gu, despite its consistency, was tasty.  However, in a few minutes I needed more so I gobbled up the Tropical Fruit PowerGel with double caffeine.  The infusion of glucose in to my brain coincided with our arrival at the gentle part of the course and as we re-enacted the Daniel Day-Lewis fantasy, my crisis passed. 

 

Soon we were at the un-manned aide station again and there was an injured runner sitting there. He noted that the water they had provided for us was bottled in Tennessee-- "home of the Vice Perpetrator".  He made some more provocative political comments, and, well it must have been the lack of glucose and the dose of caffeine, but his comment really set me off and I launched into a heated political debate. Steve made me stop talking and urged me to get running again.  I was riled up and was ranting and raving for several minutes.  Steve told me to save my energy so I continued my rant internally.  He later told me that he couldn’t believe I could find the energy for this when we were both struggling so much. However, this interaction had sparked me up and distracted me and soon we were back to the campground.  Elapsed time at the end of the second loop was 7:15.  Our second loop had taken us 3 hours and 10 minutes to complete. 

 

In transition, I quickly ate a balance bar, bagel, banana, refilled my belt with energy gels and my bottle with Gatorade.  At the finish/start aide station I had another cup of noodle soup.  It was 2:30 PM, and it was quite warm and light, so I decided to stay in my singlet and we decided we wouldn't need anything else for the final loop.  In ten minutes, we were back on the trail.  It was hard to run with after having consumed so much, but I was happy to have something in me and waddled off after Steve. He told me that we were going to take it easy this time and make sure we finished.  We knew we faced Big Ass Hill and the two evil backside bitches, and headed out in a determined manner with Steve in the lead.  Within a few minutes, I was running comfortably some 10 yards behind Steve.  I started to cough a bit and reflected on the bad cold I'd had two weeks earlier-- a sure sign of excellent marathon preparation, fatigue induced immune suppression.  Then I started to feel very cold. Already the sun had peaked and it was starting to cool. I cursed myself for not changing into a warmer shirt and began to panic. Would I get hypothermia and by the time I finished be on death's door? To overcome these negative thoughts I picked up the pace, made a conscious effort to swing my arms to generate some warmth and was soon right on Steve's heels.  As we settled in to the third loop, we encountered a whole pack of horses in the trail.  The back three let us pass and we were walking along behind three others.  In a few minutes they let us pass and we avoided the newly placed obstacles the horses had just deposited. Well before we got to the first water stop we came upon the Vice Perpetrator hobbling along the trail using a tree limb for support.  He was obviously having a much worse day than I was.  I greeted him warmly and wished him luck getting in-- he was our running comrade, after all.  Steve told me it was good that I was kind to him and it was good for my karma too.  I needed all the help I could get, no doubt about it. 

 

As we entered the Daniel Day-Lewis fantasy zone again, we were running close together in single file, my eyes glued to Steve's heels, and we resumed conversation.  Though it was late and we had a long way yet to go, we were comfortable and moving pleasantly through the middle miles of the third loop.  Even Big Ass Hill seemed a little easier this time up.  In addition, the promise of Outback ahead was especially cheering.  No doubt, I was now experiencing full endorphin narcosis.  We could tell that there were at least two runners behind us, but Don was long gone. We'd lost sight of Bill and the others we'd run the first loop with long ago.  We arrived at the Outback about 3:45 PM and chatted briefly with Norm.  He'd taken the sides off the tent and was ready to pack it in, but glad to wait us and the other two runners out.  I had another cup of noodle soup and Norm asked if we had flashlights with us.  Flashlights? Did we have flashlights? Of course! Steve and I had each made special shopping trips seeking just the perfect flashlight to carry while running. Steve even had a headlamp he'd borrowed from his son. The only problem was that we'd left them in the car.  After all it was mid afternoon when we started this loop and we were too tired to be bothered with the excess weight. I asked Norm if we'd need one, and he suggested it might be getting somewhat dark when we finished at the pace we were going. This comment prompted us to hit the trail and see if we could make it before dark. We calculated that it would still be light by the time we made the last aid station, but it might be dark by the time we finished.  I managed to only kick myself a few more times running on the narrow path.  It was almost a relief when I kicked my right ankle with my left shoe blade instead.  We each stumbled several times on the rough path, and Steve fell once. However, by the third time through, we managed to keep our feet under us. 

 

It felt like we were running at the speed of light as darkness gathered around us.  As we ran through the deep leaf mulch, it became darker and darker.  We could still see but we knew it would be dark soon.  We encountered two hunters with riffles and knives hung around their necks, decked out in camouflage fatigues who were lost.  Then we came upon the big old boy riding his mule down the trail.  He was right friendly to us again but we didn't want to stop and chat-- it was getting dark.  I had a strange "Deliverance" feeling as we ran around him and his mule. 

 

By the time it was completely dark we could see the road to the campground that the trail paralleled and knew we were almost in. The last hundred yards leading up the road was steep and crisscrossed with roots and ruts.  We picked our way through and finally gained the road.  We ran the last 100 yards together and commented on the fact that we had been out for over 11 hours and were still running!  The finish line area was in total darkness except for the welcoming glow of a single Coleman Lantern, a more welcome sight we’d never seen!  We called out our numbers and our final splits were recorded.  11:05.  The final loop had take us 3:40 to complete.  They gave us a medal and a cup of hot chocolate.  Four or five runners had dropped out, and two runners finished after us. Of the entrants, including the ones who'd signed up that morning, 24 of us finished. The last two guys finished at least two hours after us. We agreed that we hadn’t done too bad for a couple of rookies--couple of very, very tired ones.  The winner, John Nichols finished in 6:29:32 and close on his heels was Matt King, running his first ultra and the youngest competitor, finished in 6:29:47, just 15 seconds behind. 

 

We woke up on Sunday to a very bright and sore morning.  Neither of had slept well tossing and turning with our aching, screaming legs. We loaded up the car with our ridiculously large stash of gear, set the odometer to zero and headed up highway 231.  We watched the miles roll by and noted just how very far 50 miles is.  It took us an hour and fifteen minutes to cover 50 miles of highway-- a bit faster than we covered the same distance the day before.  We know we could’ve taken an hour off our time—after all, we’d spent 40 minutes in transition or at the outback—but we didn’t care! 

 

All of the finishers:

1.      John Nichols!  37       6:29:32

2.      Matt King  22           6:29:47

3.      Curt Carey  37          7:11:01

4.      Doug Hansel  41         7:35:15

5.      Bill Thom  40           8:23:14

6.      Patrick McDaniel  35    8:38:22

7.      Mike Ward  42           8:45:32

8.      Jack Thomas  48         8:47:33

9.      Jason Feagan  23        8:49:50

10.     Ben Singleton  24       8:49:50

11.     Tom McGinnis  40        9:10:28

12.     Javier Cendejas  57     9:13:19

13.     Jose Wilkie  37         9:19:21

14.     Herb Hedgecock  53      9:30:06

15.     Jon Ferency  33         9:31:12

16.     Dick Whicker  52        9:38:13

17.     Brenda Gutmann  42      9:53:08

18.     William Hollihan  70    10:20:45

19.     Del Ruckle  55          10:27:09

20.     Don Clark  49           10:33:25

21.     Stephen Beatty  50      11:05:55

22.     Buck Hales  47          11:05:55

23.     Dave O'Brien  66        13:02:16

24.     David Heitkamp  50      13:45:00